Hmm...

What if I gave you two colors to work with and let you go nuts?

I should come up with something cohesive.

Paypal sent... this will happen.

Trading emails for 2 days, re-measuring everything several times, now he's sent me CAD files to review. Thank jebus I have it for work, it's really nice to check every angle yourself.

edit: I was gonna post a CAD shot, but fuck, looks like Sony bought imageshack and no longer lets you upload pics and direct link them without "singing up." I don't know what's involved, but I ain't doing it. Only other program I know of is Picoodle, and I don't seem to be able to direct link from there either... Thanks Sony!

It has arrived.

no pic?

Took a few, taking more. Home today with baby, nanny had to take a day off. Baby-san does not like to share my attention with the laptop (working as well). Can't type more than 1 sentence without her grabbing my leg and crying. She'll nap soon.

Shit fits into the amp, and it sounds GOOD. Semke, get your thinking cap on, it needs paint. More later.

In the box was the head, the tubes, and a size XXL T-Shirt that I can't use. It's a cool shirt though.


If this doesn't get your heart racing, no circuit board will. Enough right angles in here to give Euclid a stiffy. This shit is beautifully done, and those caps.... DROOL.


It Fits!


Back shot


Which knobs do we like better... the chickenheads it came with, or the cylinders the original amp had?

Chickenheads!

they both look rad but i prefer the cylinders

Also you see that gap? I will tack some 1/2" square stock onto the back of the baffle when I re-cover with different grill cloth, and then stretch the new colth over it, which should hide it fine.


So... what do I do with the faceplate? Simple hunter green background with cream colored font / art? I assume I'll need to keep it as 1 background color with 1 screened color on top.

And the far right knob appears to be the master volume, which he made push/pull to cancel it entirely. It's cool, it does sound different with no master volume in the circuit. And fuck, this thing sounds sweet. Lots of glassy sag and tube compression, good crunch and breakup but a very, very impressive clean tone. The tele loves it. Even the 7 watt setting is loud, I'm glad I asked for it!

I think you should just screen on the "background" color... and let the aluminum shine through as the lettering.
hunter green would look good.
but what about this color? http://www.art-paints.com/Paints/Waterc ... -Brown.gif

Might be a bit of work, but imagine using the gap to shine light upon your knobs.

Why does that sound so dirty?

The aluminum is brushed, so it's not incredibly shiny. Whatever it is, it needs enough contrast to be read easily. I tend to drink when I play.

As for the light from below, that's actually a really good idea. Jesus. So how ... how do I ... what the fuck do I do for light? LED strip? Or shit a strip of those vinyl tube lights? I have to think about that. Would have to get power to it, too.

LIGHTS
http://www.amazon.com/PPA-OLSHARGB-Acce ... pg__header

GAAAAAH ha ha it has a remote! I could fucking put on a light show from where I'm playing. Jesus.

i have some serious amp envy right about now

You know, some of the fully completed, working heads they sell are not that expensive, like $500 or so. For what you're getting (a $1500+ amp) that's a steal. All you'd need is a speaker cab. And now that I've seen and heard one, I am at a loss to explain how they do it. Army of slave labor? There's not single piece on that board that isn't "the really good stuff." And the wiring is so goddam precise and clean... fuck this thing sounds good.

Gah. I played it through my old 60's fender 2x12 cab and then put it into the real 2x10 combo, and the 12's had a much nicer low end. Fuck. Now I want to replace the speakers, either with a mix of 2 different 10's (one bassier with a higher wattage rating and one punchier at 15 watt rating that will break up properly under a full load) ... or try to cram a 12 and a 10 in.

Adult movie plot.

Try and do a matchless style backlit thing on the faceplate, but if you do that, screen it black.

maybe just etch the faceplate. get a design together and take it to all things remembered at the mall.

Or more like this etching

laser etched... not as cool

This I can get behind, but again only if I have some sort of logo worth lighting up.

As for etching, the material is not as presentable as those. It's very plain aluminum, pretty soft, VERY easily scratched, and not uniformly brushed like that (though I could do that with 600 grit sandpaper). It needs protection, ala paint and clear coat.


I'm almost at the point where I just say "fuckit" and spraypaint the background color, then paint-pen the knob markings on myself, and then finally clear coat it. Almost.

how did this whole thing price out?

//did not scour the thread for such information.